Is That Buzzing Driving You Crazy? Your Guide to Bose Companion 2 Disassembly
Facing a frustrating issue with your trusty Bose Companion 2 speakers? Whether it’s a persistent buzz, a loose connection, or you’re just a curious DIYer looking to peek inside, prying open these well-built speakers can feel intimidating. You don’t want to scratch the finish or snap a critical plastic clip.
This guide is your solution. As someone who has taken apart dozens of speaker sets for repairs and modifications, I’ll walk you through the exact, step-by-step process. We’ll cover how to disassemble Bose Companion 2 speakers safely, what tools you’ll need, and what to look for once you’re inside. Forget the guesswork and potential for damage; let’s do this the right way.
Key Takeaways: Disassembling Your Bose Companion 2
- Grille First: The primary step is to carefully pry off the front metal grille, which is held on by plastic clips and light adhesive.
- Essential Tools: You cannot do this safely without a plastic pry tool (or spudger) and a #1 Phillips screwdriver. Using a metal screwdriver to pry will damage the casing.
- Right vs. Left: The right speaker is the “active” unit containing the amplifier and all electronics. The left speaker is “passive” and much simpler inside.
- Be Gentle: The internal wires connecting the speaker driver and controls are delicate. Do not pull the front baffle off forcefully after unscrewing it.
- Warranty Warning: Performing this disassembly will almost certainly void your Bose warranty. Proceed only if your speakers are out of warranty or you accept this risk.
Before You Start: Essential Prep & Tools
Before you even think about picking up a tool, it’s crucial to understand the why, the risks, and what you’ll need. A few minutes of preparation can save you hours of frustration and prevent accidental damage.
Why Disassemble Your Bose Companion 2 Speakers?
People typically open their speakers for a few common reasons. I’ve personally done this for all of the following:
- Repairing Buzzing or Rattling: Often, a simple buzz is caused by a loose wire or a piece of debris that has fallen inside.
- Fixing a Faulty Component: The most common failure points are the volume control knob (potentiometer), which can get scratchy, or the headphone jack.
- Deep Cleaning: Dust and grime can build up behind the grille over years of use, affecting sound quality.
- DIY Modifications: Audiophiles sometimes add sound-dampening material or upgrade internal components like capacitors for improved audio performance.
A Critical Warning About Your Warranty
Let’s be perfectly clear: the moment you force that grille off, you are waving goodbye to your manufacturer’s warranty. If your speakers are still under warranty and experiencing issues, your first step should always be to contact Bose support. This guide is for speakers that are out of warranty or for users who are comfortable with the risks of a DIY repair.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Having the right tools is non-negotiable. Using a kitchen knife or a flathead screwdriver to pry open the case is a surefire way to leave permanent, ugly marks. Here is the exact kit I use.
| Tool | Purpose | My Recommendation |
|---|---|---|
| Plastic Pry Tool Set | Safely separate the plastic casing and grille without scratching. | An iFixit “spudger” or a similar automotive trim removal tool. |
| Phillips #1 Screwdriver | Remove the screws holding the front baffle and internal components. | A magnetic-tipped screwdriver is a lifesaver for not losing screws. |
| Microfiber Cloth | To protect your work surface and the speaker finish. | Any clean, soft cloth will do. |
| Small Container | To keep track of the small screws you remove. | A magnetic parts tray or even a simple bowl works well. |
| Canned Air (Optional) | For blowing out dust and debris from inside the speaker. | A small, soft brush can also be used. |
How to Disassemble Bose Companion 2 Speakers (The Right/Active Unit)
The right speaker is the heart of the system, containing the power input, volume control, and amplifier board. This is where most repairs happen. Let’s break it down, step by step.
Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace
First, unplug everything. Disconnect the power adapter, the audio-in cable from your computer, and the cable leading to the left speaker. Move the speakers to a clean, well-lit area. I always lay down a large microfiber cloth on my desk to prevent any scratches.
Step 2: Carefully Remove the Front Grille
This is the most delicate part of the entire process. The metal grille is held in place by several plastic clips around its perimeter.
- Find a Starting Point: Place the speaker upright. I find the easiest place to start is at the bottom seam where the silver plastic base meets the black casing.
- Insert the Pry Tool: Gently work the thin edge of your plastic pry tool into the seam between the black grille and the silver casing.
- Pry Gently: Apply slow, steady upward pressure. You should hear a faint “pop” as the first clip releases. Do not force it.
- Work Your Way Around: Once one clip is free, move the tool along the seam to the next clip, slowly releasing them one by one. The bottom and sides usually release easier than the top.
- Remove the Grille: Once all clips are disengaged, the grille will lift away freely. Set it aside.
My Experience: The first time I did this, I was too timid. You do need to apply firm, confident pressure. The key is to distribute the pressure with the flat part of the pry tool, not the tip, to avoid denting the plastic.
Step 3: Unscrew the Front Baffle
With the grille removed, you will see the speaker driver (the cone) and the front plastic plate, known as the baffle. This baffle is held in place by four Phillips head screws, one in each corner.
- Using your Phillips #1 screwdriver, carefully remove these four screws.
- Place them immediately into your screw container so they don’t roll away.
Step 4: Detach the Volume Knob and Front Baffle
Before you can remove the baffle, you must pull the volume knob straight off. It’s a friction-fit and should come off with a firm tug. Don’t twist it, just pull directly outwards.
Now, the baffle is free, but it is still connected by wires!
- Gently lift the baffle away from the main speaker housing.
- You will see two sets of wires connecting it to the main circuit board inside.
* A two-pin connector for the speaker driver itself.
* A multi-pin ribbon cable or connector for the headphone jack.
- These wires are attached with small plastic connectors. Carefully unplug them from the main board. Sometimes a small nudge with the tip of your spudger can help release the clip.
Once the wires are disconnected, you can set the entire front baffle assembly aside.
Step 5: Accessing the Main Amplifier Board
You now have full access to the speaker
