The Ultimate Guide to Ford Excursion Speakers
A standard Ford Excursion contains 4 speakers located in the front driver/passenger doors and the rear passenger doors. All four factory locations utilize 6×8-inch speakers, though many owners choose to install 5×7-inch alternatives using adapter plates for a wider range of high-fidelity options.
Whether you are driving the 7.3L PowerStroke or the V10 Triton, the factory audio system in the “King of SUVs” often struggles to fill such a massive cabin. I have spent years upgrading these beasts, and the difference between the paper-cone factory units and modern aftermarket drivers is night and day. Because the Excursion shares its DNA with the Super Duty F-250/350, the architecture is robust, but the acoustics require a specific approach to overcome engine and road noise.
TL;DR: Key Takeaways for Excursion Audio
- Total Speaker Count: 4 (Front doors and second-row doors).
- Standard Speaker Size: 6×8 inches (Front and Rear).
- Difficulty Level: 3/10 (Beginner-friendly with the right tools).
- Required Tools: 7mm socket, panel removal tool, Phillips screwdriver.
- Pro Tip: Use Metra 72-5600 wiring adapters to avoid cutting your factory harness.
- Best Upgrade: Replace the 2nd-row speakers with high-sensitivity coaxial speakers to improve sound for rear passengers.
Understanding the Ford Excursion Speaker Layout
When asking how many speakers are in a ford excursion, it is important to distinguish between “locations” and “drivers.” While some premium SUVs feature 10 or 12 speakers, Ford kept the Excursion simple.
Front Door Speaker Locations
The front doors house one 6×8-inch speaker each. These are positioned low in the door panel. Because they are placed so low, I always recommend choosing speakers with pivoting tweeters. This allows you to angle the high frequencies up toward your ears rather than into your shins.
Rear Passenger Door Locations
The second-row doors contain the remaining two 6×8-inch speakers. Many owners are surprised to find that there are no speakers in the third-row or the rear barn doors/liftgate. This is why the 2nd-row speakers are so critical; they are responsible for providing audio to the entire back half of the 19-foot-long vehicle.
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Front Speaker Size | 6″ x 8″ (or 5″ x 7″) |
| Rear Speaker Size | 6″ x 8″ (or 5″ x 7″) |
| Speaker Depth | Up to 3.5 inches (plenty of room) |
| Factory Impedance | 4 Ohms |
| Common Material | Paper cone with foam surround (Factory) |
Choosing the Best Replacement Speakers
Since you now know how many speakers are in a ford excursion, the next step is selecting the right hardware. Not all 6×8 speakers are created equal. I have tested dozens of sets in the Excursion platform, and here is how they break down by category.
Coaxial (2-Way) Speakers**
These are the easiest to install. The tweeter is mounted directly in the center of the woofer. For the Excursion, I recommend the Rockford Fosgate Punch P1683 or the Kicker KS Series. These offer high sensitivity, meaning they sound great even if you are still using the factory head unit.
Component Speaker Systems**
If you are an audiophile, you might want to install a component system in the front. This involves mounting a separate woofer in the door and a tweeter on the A-pillar or the door sail panel. This significantly improves the soundstage, making the music feel like it’s coming from the dashboard rather than the floor.
Marine-Rated Speakers**
If you use your Excursion for off-roading, camping, or beach trips, consider marine-rated speakers like the Polk Audio DB+ series. They are built to withstand moisture and dust, which is vital if you frequently have the windows down in rugged environments.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Replacing the speakers in a Ford Excursion is a project you can complete in under two hours. Based on my experience, the hardest part is not losing the small 7mm screws inside the door panel.
Phase 1: Tools and Preparation
Before you start, gather these essential items:
- 7mm and 8mm sockets or nut drivers.
- Flat-head screwdriver (wrapped in tape to prevent scratches).
- Plastic trim removal tools (highly recommended to save your clips).
- Metra 72-5600 wiring harnesses.
Phase 2: Removing the Door Panels
- Remove the Reflector: Use your trim tool to pop out the red/clear reflector lens at the bottom corner of the door. Behind it, you will find a 7mm screw.
- Access the Main Screws: Pop off the small plastic cover behind the interior door handle. Remove the 7mm screw located there.
- Window Switch Panel: Gently pry up the window switch assembly. Disconnect the wiring harnesses and set the panel aside.
- Lift and Release: Unlike many modern vehicles that use “push-pins,” the Excursion door panels use a hook-and-slot system. Lift the panel straight UP rather than pulling it toward you.
Phase 3: Swapping the Speakers
- Unscrew the Factory Unit: Remove the four 7mm screws holding the old speaker in place.
- Disconnect Wiring: Pull the speaker out and unclip the factory harness.
- Connect New Hardware: Plug your Metra adapter into the factory plug, then connect the spade terminals to your new speaker. Bold Tip: Ensure the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals match to avoid “out-of-phase” audio, which kills your bass.
- Test Before Reassembly: Turn on your radio and ensure sound is coming from the speaker before you hang the door panel back on.
Expert Insights: Improving Sound Quality in a Large SUV
Simply knowing how many speakers are in a ford excursion isn’t enough to get “premium” sound. Because the Excursion is essentially a metal echo chamber, you need to address the environment.
The Power of Sound Dampening
I never install speakers in an Excursion without adding Butyl rubber sound deadening (like Dynamat or Noico).
- The Problem: The large metal door skins vibrate, creating “muddy” bass.
- The Fix: Apply a 12″x12″ sheet of dampening material directly behind the speaker on the inside of the outer door skin. This stops the “ringing” and makes your mid-bass punchy and tight.
The 4-Channel Amplifier Secret
The factory Ford head unit (even the “Premium” Mach system) only puts out about 8-10 watts of clean power. Modern aftermarket speakers often need 30-50 watts to perform their best. Adding a compact Class D 4-channel amplifier behind the dash will transform the 4-speaker setup from mediocre to concert-level quality.
Comparing Popular Speaker Upgrades
| Brand & Model | Type | Best For | Why We Like It |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kicker 46CSC684 | Coaxial | Budget Upgrade | Great “bang for buck” and fits perfectly. |
| Infinity Reference 8632cfx | Coaxial | Clarity | Textile tweeters provide smooth highs without harshness. |
| JL Audio C2-600x | Coaxial | High-End | Incredible build quality and deep mid-bass response. |
| Rockford Fosgate P1683 | 3-Way | Volume | Extra mid-range driver helps fill the large Excursion cabin. |
Advanced Upgrades: Going Beyond the 4 Speakers
If replacing the 4 speakers isn’t enough, you have two main options to expand the system.
Adding a Subwoofer
The Excursion has a massive “cargo hold” but many owners don’t want to lose floor space. I recommend a stealthbox or an under-seat powered subwoofer. A single 10-inch subwoofer hidden in the rear side utility panel can provide the low-end frequencies that 6×8 speakers simply cannot replicate.
Updating the Head Unit
To truly modernize the truck, replace the factory double-DIN radio with a unit featuring Apple CarPlay or Android Auto. This provides a digital signal to your new speakers, significantly reducing the “hiss” and distortion found in older analog Ford units.
Common Troubleshooting & Maintenance
Working on 20-year-old Ford wiring can present challenges. Here is what I’ve encountered most often:
- Rattling Door Panels: This is usually caused by broken plastic clips. If your panel vibrates after the install, replace the clips with Ford-specific door retainers (available on Amazon).
- Speakers Cutting Out: Check the “boot” between the door and the frame. Over decades, the wires can fray from the door opening and closing.
- Weak Bass: If you replaced all 4 speakers and it sounds “thin,” one of your speakers is likely wired in reverse polarity. Swap the wires on one speaker and see if the bass returns.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I fit 6×9 speakers in a Ford Excursion?**
Not without significant cutting. The factory opening is strictly for 6×8 or 5×7 speakers. While a 6×9 is only slightly larger, the metal mounting bracket in the Excursion doors is very rigid and does not accommodate the extra inch without a jigsaw and custom fabrication.
How many speakers are in a Ford Excursion with the “Premium” sound system?**
Even the “Premium” systems still only feature 4 main speakers. Some later models might have slight variations in tweeter mounting, but the core count remains 4. There is no factory subwoofer option for the Excursion like there was for the Expedition of the same era.
Do I need to remove the entire door panel to change the speakers?**
Yes. Unlike some vehicles where the speaker grille pops off, the Excursion grilles are integrated into the door panel. You must remove the entire panel to access the speaker mounting screws.
What is the best speaker size for a Ford Excursion?**
The 6×8-inch is the native size and provides the most cone surface area, which helps with bass. However, many high-end “audiophile” brands only make 5×7-inch speakers. Both fit the same mounting holes, so choose based on the quality of the speaker rather than the specific size.
Are the front and rear speakers the same?**
Yes, in the Ford Excursion, all four speakers are identical in size (6×8) and impedance (4-ohm). This makes it very easy to buy two pairs of the same speaker for a balanced sound profile throughout the cabin.
